Found the site online and joined up to learn more about repairing my mower.
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Hi LMF
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Belts for 1998 Craftsman LTX1000
Hi All:
I need to replace both belts on my mower. The last one I bought from Home Depot didnt last that long...think it was a Power Care belt.
Can someone confirm the make/model of the belts needed for my mower?
Also, any suggestions on where to buy high quality belts?
Thanks in advance.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I need to replace both belts on my mower. The last one I bought from Home Depot didnt last that long...think it was a Power Care belt.
Can someone confirm the make/model of the belts needed for my mower?
Also, any suggestions on where to buy high quality belts?
Thanks in advance.
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New member
Hi everyone. I found this site through search cuz I wanted to find out how much would a good price to sell a 1989 craftsman used working riding mower. Tried google search but couldn’t find a decent answer
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Lawn Mower care over winter - msg to neighborhood forum
Neighbors, be sure you add Stabil to your mower gas can per directions on the Stabil bottle now that we are getting cooler weather. This will insure your gasoline doesn't go bad over the winter and gunk up your carburetor.
Another option is to simply run your mower out of gas when you're done using it. Knowing when that will be is not always easy, so don't fill it much from now on. If you have to add a little gas to get that last mowing done, so be it. Then run it out before you park it for the winter. And remember to pour the rest of your can into your car.
One of the most frequent problems I see in my hobby repair work, is dirty carburetors. With ethanol in today's gas, the carburetor has become the most fragile part of your machine. Ethanol goes bad in a month or two and leaves a dirty residue throughout.
Yet another option is to use ethanol free gas if you can find it outside of the Chicago Metropolitan area. The hardware store also carries it, but it's darn expensive at $6 to $7 a quart. I'll sometimes run my mower out of gas and then put half a quart of ethanol free in it for that last mowing or two and then I'm good until spring.
Lots of options. Good luck,
Joe
Another option is to simply run your mower out of gas when you're done using it. Knowing when that will be is not always easy, so don't fill it much from now on. If you have to add a little gas to get that last mowing done, so be it. Then run it out before you park it for the winter. And remember to pour the rest of your can into your car.
One of the most frequent problems I see in my hobby repair work, is dirty carburetors. With ethanol in today's gas, the carburetor has become the most fragile part of your machine. Ethanol goes bad in a month or two and leaves a dirty residue throughout.
Yet another option is to use ethanol free gas if you can find it outside of the Chicago Metropolitan area. The hardware store also carries it, but it's darn expensive at $6 to $7 a quart. I'll sometimes run my mower out of gas and then put half a quart of ethanol free in it for that last mowing or two and then I'm good until spring.
Lots of options. Good luck,
Joe
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Honda 2113 mower belt routing
I installed a new OEM belt for the mower deck and not totally sure I have it on right. It keeps coming off the front engine pulley. It was doing that when I got the mower and figured a new belt would cure it. it looks like that belt guard should keep it in place but it does not. Anyone got a drawing that shows exactly how the belt should be installed? Maybe the guard has been bent in some way?
Thanks
Michael
Thanks
Michael
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Hope to learn
Hi all - here to learn from everyone here. I've got a little experience problem solving and I've always got issues looking to fix.
Father of two, husband of one, from central Louisiana, LSU grad, small business owner, mentor and mentee.
I own a 2006 Exmark that was free - and came with all the problems of a free mower.
JOE
Father of two, husband of one, from central Louisiana, LSU grad, small business owner, mentor and mentee.
I own a 2006 Exmark that was free - and came with all the problems of a free mower.
JOE
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Hustler fastrac won't charge the battery
I have a Hustler Fastrac that won't charge the battery. Once the battery is dead it will run until you shut it off and then wont start. I've looked at Kawasaki's schematic, but can't decide where the failure is. has anyone else had this problem and if so is this another common problem with the fastrac mower?
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Electrical Question
I cant seem to locate the connector on the other side...anyone know where to connect this?
1998 craftsman LTX1000
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1998 craftsman LTX1000
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Hey all, I have a gravely with a kohler command 15.
Im working on this for a friend, the carb stuck open when sitting. When he went to use it it smoked and leaked oil. I drained the case, changed the filter. Got it to run but it wont run on hi throttle, just dies. Cleaned the carb also btw, but it still leaked thru. Bought an aftermarket carb, does the same thing on the high throttle. I checked the valve rods, everything is strait, but cant adjust the valves. Is this normal for this motor?![]()
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Mower runs then quits
A story told a thousand times. Mower runs for about 5 seconds and dies.
Ok so things I have done.
Rebuilt carb 3 times just to make sure.
Changed fuel line
Cleaned gas tank
Changed sparkplug
Took the flywheel off and checked key
The only thing I haven't done is change coil. Should do that?
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Ok so things I have done.
Rebuilt carb 3 times just to make sure.
Changed fuel line
Cleaned gas tank
Changed sparkplug
Took the flywheel off and checked key
The only thing I haven't done is change coil. Should do that?
Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk
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Cadet Yard Bug shift cable install
Hello, I just purchased a 1999 Cadet Yard Bug. The shift cables are missing. I’m wondering if anyone had any info on how to install new ones?
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Can You Identitfy?
Hello, I was given this non running generator. It is about 10 years old but has only point eight hours on it. My goal is to get it running and usable. I thought it was a Northern Tool product, but they have not been helpful. I would like to get an owners manual. All the info I have you can see in the photo. What is this thing!? Thanks
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Local Small Engine Guy Seems Expensive--Second Opinions?
Hello! It's been a number of months since i've been on but really enjoy this site and your guys input. Actually it's about time for the snowblower forum (Vermont.)
So there is a guy down the street "Big Al's Small Engine Repair Shop" who does it all and does really good work--he just seems expensive to me; so i was hoping to get a second opinion on that. I go to him because he's right down the street and i can literally push or drive my lawnmower, lawn tractor, snowblower or dighy engine to him to be worked on. However; he is "cash only" and though he does good work, it always winds up being more than i thought it might be. I think every small town has a shop/guy like this.
Here is a recent example. I brought over my Honda push mower for an Oil change and oil change only; thinking that should be $20-$30. I have used it for light edge work on my lawn for two summers with no maintenance done. He looks underneath it and goes "the blades need to be sharpened." Okay.....didn't think they would after two years of light grass cutting. So he calls me 3 days later and goes---I changed the oil, sharpened the blades, cleaned the carb (it needed it he claimed) added some gearbox/transmission oil, oiled the gears/wheels, and did "general maintenance." He then said it would be $70; and he was giving me $10 off his labor costs. Doesn't $70 seem high for a push mower, or is that par for the course?
I'm debating finding another shop but this guy is just so close/convenient and the work he does at the very least is solid; the machines always run like a top afterwards. Thanks for your opinions!
So there is a guy down the street "Big Al's Small Engine Repair Shop" who does it all and does really good work--he just seems expensive to me; so i was hoping to get a second opinion on that. I go to him because he's right down the street and i can literally push or drive my lawnmower, lawn tractor, snowblower or dighy engine to him to be worked on. However; he is "cash only" and though he does good work, it always winds up being more than i thought it might be. I think every small town has a shop/guy like this.
Here is a recent example. I brought over my Honda push mower for an Oil change and oil change only; thinking that should be $20-$30. I have used it for light edge work on my lawn for two summers with no maintenance done. He looks underneath it and goes "the blades need to be sharpened." Okay.....didn't think they would after two years of light grass cutting. So he calls me 3 days later and goes---I changed the oil, sharpened the blades, cleaned the carb (it needed it he claimed) added some gearbox/transmission oil, oiled the gears/wheels, and did "general maintenance." He then said it would be $70; and he was giving me $10 off his labor costs. Doesn't $70 seem high for a push mower, or is that par for the course?
I'm debating finding another shop but this guy is just so close/convenient and the work he does at the very least is solid; the machines always run like a top afterwards. Thanks for your opinions!
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JD L120 Not Charging
My L120 does not charge the battery. It goes dead after running a couple times. When I remove the battery and put it on a charger, the battery takes the charge and the tractor operates fine.
I understand auto engines and alternators, but the tractor system confuses me. What and where do I look and test or replace?
I understand auto engines and alternators, but the tractor system confuses me. What and where do I look and test or replace?
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new to forum
I am retired, well maybe semi-retired. Live in the North Carolina mountains and have quite a bit of grass to mow.
I currently own three Husqvarna tractor style mowers, the oldest was bought in 2005. The newest two are about 4 and 5 years old. The latest two have the limited slip hydrostatic transmissions, a real game changer for me in these hills.
I currently own three Husqvarna tractor style mowers, the oldest was bought in 2005. The newest two are about 4 and 5 years old. The latest two have the limited slip hydrostatic transmissions, a real game changer for me in these hills.
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Tuff Torq limited slip hydrostatic transaxles
Tuff Torq 7A646084321 An axle seal got damaged and most of the fluid leaked out. I was able to buy a new seal and install it. This transaxle is a non servicable unit but a friend in the business showed me how I can add fluid by prying up the vent. Question is, what fluid do I install? Since it is a non servicable unit, I do not think there is any published specs on it.
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Weedeater WE261 clicking when driving
So I'm working on this Weedeater One WE261 riding mower I picked up a few weeks ago. I see all the horrible reviews on these but they seem to be pretty simple to work on. The Briggs engine runs beautiful, probably the nicest running engine I've had on a mower even though it's small for a rider. It does in fact ride and mow. I tested it out. However, probably from sitting up, when going forward or reverse there's a clicking sound coming from the rear end the whole time it's moving. Similar to the sound a car exhaust leak ticking is. When you hit the brakes and the mower stops so does the sound. I pulled the back cover because I know the chains stretch but these are tight and not hanging. No play in them. All the bare metal under there has surface rust I guess from sitting. I cleaned under there real good and sprayed WD-40 all over the chains and drove it around again. Didn't seem to help. I didn't see anything broken or rubbing. It had a newer belt on it but no numbers on it. I don't know if it's the right one. Is it most likely a chain causing the noise or could I have not seen a bearing that might be bad? I like how simple the rear end is. It's a lot less complicated than the Snapper I have. I didn't want to buy all the chains if I don't need them.
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How can I diagnose electric short
I have an old (1995) Yard-Man 4 wheel steer riding mower that is popping fuses. It used to do that once in a great while but today it did it, then I put a new one in, started up and ran 30 feet and popped it again. When I inserted a new one it popped it right away. So I guess an intermittent short is now full time. What is the best way to go about diagnosing where it is shorting out?
I am thinking attaching an ohm meter to the output side of fuse link. Then I should have continuity to the frame. If so I can work backwards disconnecting wires until I no longer have continuity. That should tell me where the short is. Sound feasible? Is there a better way?
I am thinking attaching an ohm meter to the output side of fuse link. Then I should have continuity to the frame. If so I can work backwards disconnecting wires until I no longer have continuity. That should tell me where the short is. Sound feasible? Is there a better way?
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Just picked up a 2012 Lt2000
Just picked up this week. I believe it's a 2012 Lt2000 with bagger. Paid $250 only needed bearings in one of the spindlesAttachment 59911
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Honda Drain plug
Hello, Today I purchased a homemade leaf vacuum. It is kind of rough but it appears to work great. I attempted to change the oil but cannot remove the the drain plug. None of my sockets fit! It is somewhere in the 11mm range. Is there a unique tool for it? I believe it is a 6 hp Honda motor 10 or 12 yrs old. Thanks
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